Several times I’ve had to drive from Nice to Geneva for business, and not wanting to travel on the highways, I always look for the ‘off the beaten path’ routes. One of my favorite drives is along the E74 from Ventimiglia, Italy, Northbound to Cuneo, then onward to Geneva.
On this route, as you meander alongside the Roya River, you’ll pass through quaint little villages perched on the cliff sides or nestled right on the river itself. As you pass from Italy, back into France and then back into Italy again, the language on the signs change, but the architecture remains the same. This area was in the hands of France and Italy several times before it was finally ceded to France in 1860. Don’t be in a hurry or you could miss some wonderful people, food and culture.
Having done this drive several times, it’s hard to keep my eyes on the curvy mountain road as there’s just so much to see. One of those ‘not to be missed’ points of interest is the perched village or village perché in French, is Saorge. Only 1h14m from Nice, it’s a great day trip. Alternatively you can avoid the tolls of the A8 and drive through the mountains along the D2204, which will add 30 minutes to your drive. If you choose this route, don’t miss the Notre-Dame de la Menour, only 20 minutes North on the D2566 from the village of Sospel. Before leaving Sospel, make sure you visit the Sospel Cathedral, stop for a coffee or gelato. From Sospel it’s only 42 more minutes to Saorge.
After joining the E74 (D6204) just outside of the village of Breil-sur-Roya, turn north again and wind along for 4.3km (2.7 miles) next to the Roya River until reaching the Southern access to Saorge. Personally I prefer continuing for another 2.6km (1.6 miles) on the E74 to the village of Fontan, then taking the D38 back into Saorge. This will allow you to park directly in the parking at the entrance of Saorge, and you’ll avoid the steep walk had your chosen the Southern access.
Saorge is a sleepy little village one could imagine getting ‘off the grid’ in. Wandering around the narrow streets, you get the feeling like this could be the place to retire in peace. That said, just a stones throw away is actually a retirement home called Résidence Retraite Le Temps des Cerises. In English that means The Cherry Season Retirement Residence. Walking by seeing the retired people passing the day sitting outside, in the clean mountain air and overlooking the gorgeous valley below, I think now these people have it figured out.
When in Saorge, be sure to visit the Eglise Saint Sauveur de Saorge (Church of Saint Savior of Saorge), and the Monastère de Saorge.
Unfortunately I cannot recommend any restaurants in Saorge, as the only one I’ve visited is now permanently closed. You might be better off picking up some cheese, wine, a freshly baked baguette and some saucisson sec (dry-cured sausage) in Sospel or Breil-sur-Roya, then having a picnic either in the village, overlooking the valley, or down on the banks of the Roya. Either way, you’ll be glad to did.
Stay tuned as my next article will take you from Saorge to Novello, Italy.
Photo of Saorge, France
